DIY Natural Mineral Makeup Liquid Foundation (Only 3 Ingredients!)

makeup header

Those who know me know that over the years, I’ve transitioned to non-toxic home and body care products. I make my own deodorant and toothpaste, I wash my hair with baking soda and apple cider vinegar, and I moisturize with natural oils. I clean most of my home with baking soda, vinegar, and elbow grease.

One thing that took longer to change up was makeup. Yes, the best thing to do would be to give up makeup entirely. I am not a high-maintenance girl, and I wish I could do that; but man, I have the worst skin. I have had terrible acne since I was 11 and it is not letting up at all in my thirties.

I . . . I don’t want to talk about it. It really bums me out. Suffice it to say, I’m really self-conscious about my skin and I feel better with a bit of makeup.

I tried a few commercial brands of less-toxic makeup, but they were very expensive, the ingredients were still kind of sketchy, and they didn’t work as well. Making my own makeup just seemed too hard. How would I get the right shade for my skin? How could I get homemade mascara to not run?

The first thing I changed in my makeup kit was my eyeliner. I started making my own eyeliner out of activated charcoal. That was super-easy and inexpensive, and also really effective.

But the rest? It stayed the same for years. I’d been buying the exact same CoverGirl liquid powder foundation for the last 13 years. (I’m from the if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it camp on just about everything.)

I live in a small Canadian town, so I don’t have access to a lot of local shops making small batches of homemade lotions and makeup. And shipping is bonkers is expensive here. Buying makeup online is risky because you can’t test it out. What’s a girl to do?

Mineral Makeup: Almost Right?

 

Finally, a few years ago, I got a chance to try mineral makeup, which I’d been wanting to try for years.

Mineral makeup uses minerals such as iron oxides, talc, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide, which are ground and milled into tiny particles to create makeup. It sits on the skin rather than being absorbed into it, making it safer. It’s free of parabens, chemical dyes, and perfumes, and are healthy for all skin types. Many brands even claim to nourish the skin rather than damage it.

But real mineral makeup always comes in a loose powdered form. One of the main reasons is because the ingredients that turn makeup into a liquid are generally the most toxic ones.

Basically, you need harsh ingredients to create a liquid makeup that won’t go bad.

Microbes thrive in water, so liquid formulations must include some kind of preservative. If you don’t want nasty preservatives in your makeup, you can’t have it in a liquid form.

So I gave powdered mineral makeup a good try. I watched all the YouTube videos on how to apply it and bought the fancy kabuki brush.

Brush, brush, brush, brush, brush, I went. And then brush, brush, brush, brush, brush some more. (Mineral makeup is hardcore, you guys. So much brushing.)

I couldn’t get it to work for me.

Like I said, I have really crappy skin: I have constant acne, and it’s always simultaneously dry, too. Powder always looks cakey on me, and it takes a ton of it to cover all my blemishes.

Mineral makeup is expensive. And I’m lazy. I can’t be brushing powder all over my face for ten minutes every day.

I wanted the natural-ness of mineral makeup, but the creamy texture of my favourite CoverGirl liquid powder foundation. But none of the toxic ingredients necessary for a commercial liquid makeup.

It was time to turn my powdered mineral makeup into a DIY liquid foundation.

(So in case it wasn’t clear yet: my DIY recipe uses pre-purchased mineral makeup powder. This is not one of those recipes that uses cinnamon and cocoa powder to provide colour. So you will have to go out and find a good mineral makeup that matches your skin tone to follow this recipe.)

MY DIY Liquid Powder Foundation

homemade liquid makeup

I realized that if I wanted to make my own liquid makeup, I would need to make it in small batches to prevent contamination and growth of microbes.

And if I needed to make it frequently, the recipe needed a minimum of ingredients to make it quick and easy.

One DIY recipe I came across online demands that you make a small batch every single day to prevent the growth of mould. Sheesh! I’m not that concerned about contamination. So I make a batch that lasts me about a month. I figure that most makeup you pick up from the drugstore shelf is probably already a month old by the time it gets into your shopping cart, so I’m at least doing better than that.

That same recipe claims to have only “two ingredients,” but one of the ingredients is a homemade lotion consisting of five other ingredients. So . . . no thanks. I wanted something quicker and easier.

After experimenting with a few different natural oils and butters, and playing with the proportions, I found one that made me happy. Just plain shea butter was too thick and pastey, so I added skin-friendly jojoba oil to thin it and add some slip. You may want to play around with it, too, in order to control the amount of coverage it offers and how thick you like it.

Okay, so now you’re wondering, Does it work? How does it look?

Here are my before and after pictures. I am being very vulnerable showing you my untouched, blemish-riddled “before” picture, so be nice. I really hope this isn’t the image that gets pinned. (I did not retouch these photos at all.)

homemade liquid mineral makeup

So maybe I don’t look like a model in a shampoo commercial, but I feel a lot more confident leaving the house looking like the “after” than the “before.”

(P.S. the homemade eyeliner recipe can be found here.)

The Recipe

This creates a thick, creamy foundation similar to CoverGirl’s Ultimate Finish Liquid Powder. It’s not pourable at room temperature. It can also work as a concealer.

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 tsp shea butter
  • 1/2 tsp jojoba oil
  • 1 tsp loose powder mineral makeup*

*I buy mine from a small store in London, Ontario. I’ve heard good things about Jane Iredale and Bare Minerals, available at Sephora. I’ve also purchased a decent mineral makeup from the Body Shop.

Tools:

  • double boiler (I just put a ceramic bowl over a small pot of boiling water)
  • small container (I use a Tupperware pill box)
  • makeup sponge

Place three ingredients in double boiler, and warm just until shea butter is melted. Then stir well. Scrape it into a small container and allow it to cool.

Apply to skin using a good-quality makeup sponge.

That’s it! I make a batch about every 6 weeks, but then, as a stay-at-home mom I rarely apply it.

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Easy DIY Orange Candles (Cheap! Eco-Friendly! All-Natural! Fun!)

How to make a candle out of an orange. A fun, cheap, easy, eco-friendly DIY!Here’s a neat little craft/activity you and your family might enjoy: turn an orange into a candle (with stuff you already have in your house)!

We love having a candle burning while we eat our dinner, especially during the dark winter evenings. I typically burn my own homemade tallow-and-beeswax candles — it’s important that my candles are clean, natural, and unscented, especially around food.

But this DIY orange candle was a fun little twist. The orange rind acts as a bowl to hold the oil, and the orange’s “central column” (which you have to keep intact) acts as the wick.

We first tried this on little tangerines, and they burned for hours and hours! They have a slightly citrusy scent, which is delightful.

All you need for these homemade candles are:

  • an orange (or other citrus fruit. So far we’ve found that tangerines and clementines work better than large navel oranges)
  • some cooking oil (I used olive)
  • a knife
  • a lighter or match

Optional:

  • it really helps to work over a napkin, because it gets pretty messy.
  • a spoon is helpful to loosen the fruit from the peel.

how to make a candle out of an orange and olive oil

Okay, here’s what you do.

1. Using a small knife, cut just the skin of the orange around the equator.

Is that actually what it’s called? Like, if the stem and navel are the north and soul poles, you’d cut around the equator. But not all the way through; just the peel. Here’s a picture of what I mean:

cutting an orange to make a diy candle

(Yeah, I’m a leftie — sorry.)

2. Loosen the orange peel from the fruit.

A spoon is really helpful for this step. Stick the tip under the rind and slide it around the perimeter of the orange to separate the rind from the fruit.

making an orange candle

(Whoa, what a crappy photo! Did I go partially blind for a second? I don’t know what happened there. Oh, well; it still gives you the right idea.)

If you don’t have a spoon, you can do it with just your fingers, but it will be messier.

3. Go ahead and cut the orange in half now, all the way through.

diy orange candle

(My little helper was eager to do this part.)

4. Now scoop out the fruit from both halves, being careful to keep the orange’s “central column” attached.

orange candle diy

(I totally had to google what that part of the orange is called. You know what I mean. That white, fibrous column that runs through the orange, stem to navel.)

diy orange candle

Now you have two candle bowls with wicks!

Go ahead and eat the fruit while you’re at it. Vitamin C!

5. Fill the orange halves with cooking oil, making sure to get some on the wick.

diy orange candle with olive oil

I used olive oil. I think just about any oil would work: vegetable, canola, peanut . . . whatever you have on hand.

Just leave a little bit of the wick sticking out.

6. Light it up!

diy orange candle -- light the middle

Note: be sure to place your orange candle on a ceramic or glass (or other heat-safe) dish before lighting. It can get very hot when it gets down to the bottom and could burn your table. I don’t want to be responsible for any house fires!

Lighting might take a few minutes, especially if you use a large orange with a really wet, fleshy column. (Yeah . . . sorry if that sounded perverted. I noticed it too.) Be patient and keep trying. The wick needs to be soaked in oil.

As I said above, I found the little tangerines and clementines worked the best and easiest, while the big navel orange gave me some trouble. (I could only get one half to light, in fact.)

And there you go! Your homemade, all-natural candle!

make a candle out of an orange

Keep an eye on your candle and keep adding oil as the level burns down, and it will keep going for hours. My first tangerine candles burned for over 4 hours! Jury’s still out on the navel orange. We’ve lit it every evening for the last 3 days and it’s still going strong.

Have fun!

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The Best Materials for Your Very, Very First Knitting Project

the best materials for your very, very first knitting projectSo you want to learn how to knit. Hooray! That was me just a few short weeks ago.

Yup, I’m still a beginner myself. And I would love for you to learn from my mistakes.

I had a rough start of it. I just could not get the hang of it. I had to pull apart the first three projects I started.

“Knitting is HARD!” I complained to my husband.

Part of the problem was that I didn’t have a live teacher to instruct me — I was just watching a random assortment of Youtube videos without any real instruction on how to best begin. (Things got a little better when I bought The Idiot’s Guide to Knitting — I started at the beginning and am working my way through.)

But an even bigger problem, I soon realized, is that I was using the wrong materials.

I was using skinny aluminum needles and thin, slippery, cotton yarn.

The materials I chose were too fiddly and too small. My yarn kept slipping off my needles, I couldn’t see what I was doing, and my yarn had no give. It was stiff and tight, making it difficult to manipulate.

After watching this video, I realized what I needed to do.  I needed to start with different materials. So I went to my local yarn shop and selected some new needles and yarn.

GAME-CHANGER.

After re-starting with my new materials, I quickly caught on. They were much easier to use. My confidence quickly grew, and soon I was knitting and purling with relative ease.

So if you’re looking to start knitting, I thought I’d pass along the advice no one gave me.

If you’re a brand-new knitter starting her very, very first knitting project, here’s what you need:

some large bamboo needles and some chunky, variegated wool yarn.

Let me explain the benefits of these materials.

Needles: Large, Bamboo

I got some US Size 10 (6mm) bamboo needles (like these). (Standard size is around size 8/5mm).Best tools for your very first knitting project: big bamboo needles and chunky yarn

  • Bigger (thicker) needles makes it easier to see your work and to count your stitches. They’re also easier to manipulate when you’re still new and clumsy.
  • Bamboo is much less slippery than steel or aluminum, so your stitches aren’t always slipping off. Newbies tend to be terrified of their stitches falling off (because it does happen), so they’re more likely to hold their yarn in a death-grip (I know I did!), which makes it hard to knit well. With more grippy needles, you can relax a little and focus your energy on getting the movements right.

Yarn: Chunky, Acrylic/Wool, Variegated

yarn

I purchased Patons Shetland Chunky yarn in Harvest Variegated. Here’s why it’s perfect:

  • Getting an acrylic/wool blend is great because it’s a little more grippy than, say, cotton or silk. Just like with the bamboo needles (above), more grip helps keep your stitches from sliding off. It also has some stretch to it, making it more forgiving when you’re just learning the movements. (Pure wool would probably be great, too, but it might be a little pricey for a first project. And plain acrylic is probably just fine, too, but the texture might not be as pleasant.)
  • A thicker, chunkier/bulkier yarn is easier to see, so you can count your stitches and keep track of your working yarn better.
  • Variegated colour, I learned by accident, helps you to catch your mistakes more easily. If you’re working along and all of a sudden one of your loops is a different colour from the surrounding loops, you know you’ve probably done something wrong. (Perhaps you’ve dropped a stitch or wound your working yarn over your needle when you weren’t supposed to.) This gives you a chance to stop and investigate before it’s too late to fix your mistake.

An example of how variegated colour can help you:

A common mistake among new knitters is getting your last stitch twisted, so that you end up with what looks like two stitches instead of one. You end up working both loops, adding an unwanted stitch to your row. With variegated yarn, it’s much easier to notice this mistake. Take a look:

twisted stitches on knitting needle

Oops! These last two loops shouldn’t be purple. They look out of place for a reason. The stitch must be twisted. There’s an extra loop here – don’t knit!

Adjust your stitches so that they match the surrounding loops. You’ll notice there’s only supposed to be one loop where you previously saw two.

The best materials for your first knitting project

Ahh, that’s better! Disaster averted. I may not have caught that with a single-coloured yarn.

And there you have it! The ideal knitting materials for your first knitting project.

(As my first project, I decided to make a blanket for my daughter’s doll, using this dishtowel pattern [the second one]. It’s a great opportunity to learn how to combine knits/purls/garter/stockinette without getting overly complicated, and not too big a commitment. Just a suggestion. You can see mine here.)

NOTE ON SELECTING YOUR MATERIALS: make sure the size of your needles and yarn are compatible. Your yarn ball band should have a recommended needle size on it. I went back and forth between a few different yarns and needles until I found a good match. In general, bulky-weight yarns work with a size 10-11 needle. Extra-bulky might require a 11 or 13.

yarn ball band(You can see my yarn is bulky-weight or category 5. The suggested needle size is US 10 or 6mm.Sorry about the crummy photo.)

Happy knitting!

*Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links.*

Felted {Crocheted} Treasure Bowls: Pattern and Tutorial

DIY felted crocheted treasure bowl - tutorial and pattern

When I read Amanda Blake Soule’s Rhythm of the Family some time last year, I was immediately and completely smitten by her felted treasure bowls. They were adorable, and perfect for holding the types of things Lydia and I love to collect from nature. There was just one major problem: they’re knitted. I don’t know how to knit. I don’t know the first thing about knitting. So I sighed and turned the page, never to create her beautiful little bowls.

At the time, I didn’t know how to crochet, either. But during the five months we spent in the hospital with Felix, I got a chance to learn. And to get reasonably good at it, too.

As soon as I learned to crochet in the round, Soule’s little felted bowls snuck out from the back of my mind. Maybe I could make a crocheted version? Didn’t it work basically the same way?

It does! I’ve tried it.

I tried to find a pattern online but I couldn’t find exactly what I was looking for. So I made up my own pattern and figured out how to felt it by checking out a variety of other tutorials.

Here you have it!

A Few Notes

You need to use 100% wool yarn to create a felted piece. Felting is the process of the natural fibers matting together to form a dense fabric.

Felting also causes shrinkage. Your finished bowl will be smaller than the crocheted one you start with.

I’m writing this pattern with the assumption you already know how to crochet. It just uses a magic loop and single crochet stitches worked in a spiral. You need to know how to increase and decrease.

I started with this pattern for inspiration and tweaked it to suit what I had in mind.

 Step One: Crochet

Materials:

  • Size G hook
  • 100% wool, worsted weight (One skein will make several bowls)
  • Stitch marker (a small safety pin works)

Abbreviations:

sc= single crochet

st = stitch (sts =stitches)

sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (a.k.a. single crochet decrease)

Pattern

Start with a magic ring (a.k.a adjustable ring, adjustable loop). Make 6 single crochets into the ring. Pull tail to close ring tightly.

(Alternative: chain 2. Make 6 single crochets into the second chain from the hook).

Rnd 2: 2 sc into each sc stitch (12)

Rnd 3: (2 sc into the first st, then 1 sc in next st) around (18) *From here on in, it’s helpful to mark the first stitch of each round with your stitch marker so you know where you started

crocheting round 3 of bowl(Note the stitch marker I’m using to keep track of the beginning of the round. Also, I’m a leftie, so this will probably look different for you.)

Rnd 4: Repeat Rnd 3 (27)

Rnd 5: (2 sc into the first st, then 1 sc into next 2 sts) around (36)

Rnd 6: (2 sc into first st, then 1 sc into next 3 sts) around (45)

Rnd 7: (2 sc into first st, then 1 sc into next 4 sts) around (Here I lost count but you get the idea)

Rnd 8-18: 1 sc into each stitch around. This is where your circle starts to turn into a bowl!

Rnd 19: (sc2tog, then sc into next 4 sts) around [You’re decreasing here to get the rim of the bowl to curve inward just a smidge]

Rnd 20: Repeat Rnd 19

Use a slip stitch in the next stitch to fasten off. Trim and weave in ends.

crocheting wool bowl

crocheted bowl - before felting

Step 2: Felting

This step is fun after all the counting and precision and repetition of the previous step.

To felt something made of wool, you need heat, water, and agitation. Soap helps, too. You want the fibers to all mat together to create a dense fabric. Some people use the washing machine to felt  their work, and I would probably choose to do it that way if I had a bunch of bowls to do at once; but when I’m making one at a time, I’d rather just do it by hand.

All you need is a tap and a bar of soap. (Liquid works too, but a bar adds agitation.)

Under running hot water — as hot as you can stand — start to soap up your bowl and lather it. Then you just go to town on your bowl. Squashing, rubbing, scrubbing, massaging, wringing, and twisting.  Rinse and repeat. Keep it up until it’s felted to your liking. I didn’t want to see too much stitch definition, but a little was okay.

My hands get kind of tired, so I did it in two ten-minute-ish sessions.

Then rinse with cold water to lock the fibers.

Squeeze out as much water as you can. Wrap in a towel and squeeze some more.

Then shape it with your hands and let it air dry. I put an orange inside mine for a few hours to keep it nice and round.

The stitches will tighten up to create a nice, dense fabric. Like this:

before and after felting a crocheted wool bowl

Tada: your bowl is felted!

felted wool bowl

Time to add your treasures:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I made a few different sizes, by increasing or decreasing the number of rounds:

DIY felted treasure bowls - three different sizes

Adults can use them for their treasures, too!

DIY felted treasure bowls for holding jewelry!

Hope you find these bowls as charming as I do!

Beginner’s Striped Cotton Crochet Throw Blanket

Beginner's 's striped black and white cotton crocheted throw blanketI just learned to crochet this February. So if I can make this throw blanket, anyone can make this blanket!

In fact, anyone with even the most basic crochet skills could make this blanket without a tutorial. It’s just double crochet throughout, switching between black and white. If you can do that one stitch (and switch colours), you’ve got this! Read on to learn more!

*Note: I learned how to crochet with Crafty Minx’s Crochet School. I HIGHLY recommend!! She’s very thorough, and offers lefty versions for south-paws like me.*

The Inspiration

Crocheted black-and-white throw blanket(Pillow and artwork from Ikea. Paper-mache deer heads my own.)

I’ve wanted a  black-and-white striped blanket ever since I saw Ikea’s. (I’m always a sucker for black-and-white stripes. I’m mad about the Scandinavian look.) But the Ikea one is made of acrylic, and I wanted natural fibers.

As I started to learn crochet, I quickly fell in love with cotton for its drape. Unlike acrylic, which can often give you a stiff end-product, cotton just envelops you in its drapey folds. For me, that’s an ideal characteristic in a blanket. Forget fluff and fuzz. I want a blanket to flow over me like a warm, full-body hug. This one does just that.

DIY black and white striped crocheted blanket

Organic cotton would have been ideal, but I didn’t want to spend too much on a beginner project in case it didn’t work out. So I went with Bernat Handicrafter Cotton, which is inexpensive and you can get it just about anywhere (including Wal-Mart). I spent $28 on yarn for this project, which is pretty decent for a good-sized throw blanket.

I decided on the double crochet stitch because it works up quickly, even though I prefer the appearance of other stitches. As a beginner, when you’re still kind of slow, I think it’s important to choose projects that don’t take an eternity to complete so you don’t get discouraged and give up. (If you’re a beginner and you need a refresher on the double crochet, see this tutorial. Getting that last stitch in can be tricky)

DIY crocheted striped throw blanket

Notes on the Tutorial

Like I said, this pattern is so basic you don’t really need a tutorial. I came up with it on my own and I’m a total newbie. I’m offering instructions mostly so you can predict the dimensions. I’ve done the test swatches and the math to get you a 3-foot x 4-foot blanket, which I consider just right size for snuggling on the couch with some popcorn and a movie. It won’t take you a million years to finish but it’s definitely big enough to keep  your feet warm or drape around your arms and shoulders comfortably.

Moreover, this pattern produces the least amount of waste if you’re using the small balls of yarn I used. Each stripe uses up (almost) exactly one small ball, so you’re not left with a bunch of useless scraps. And the small balls might be all you can find, as they’re readily available all over the place. (I’ve seen them at Wal-Mart, Michael’s, and even a discount yarn warehouse.) The larger ones are a lot harder to find — white is often all they have in stock (if anything).

Bernat cotton yarn - two sizesThe two different sizes

Overview

Each stripe is 6 rows of 112 double-crochet stitches (except the first stripe, which has the additional chain.) Each stripe uses up one small ball of yarn.

I prefer to weave in ends as I go. (Not the stripe I’ve just finished, but one or two behind.) That way I’m not left with all the boring weaving at the very end. I don’t use the “cheating” method of crocheting over the tail because I think it’s more noticeable, and easier to pull out/unravel later. I want this blanket to be able to withstand dozens of washes.

*Since I’m new at writing patterns, forgive me if I’ve overlooked anything. Let me know if you run into any problems!*

Materials

  • Size J hook (optional. For foundation chain)
  • Size H Hook
  •  710-720 yards worsted weight cotton in white. I used Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Off White. This is either one large 14-oz ball or 9 small 1.74-oz balls (see above photo)
  • 710-720 yards worsted weight cotton in black. I used Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in Black Liquorice (same amount as white, above)
  • yarn needle for weaving in ends

beginner's crochet blanket

Instructions

Black stripe:

Using the J hook, chain 115 with black yarn. (I always do my foundation chain with a larger-size hook than the rest of the project, because otherwise it’s too tight and gives it a narrow or curled end. This is especially important with cotton since it doesn’t stretch.)

Row 1: Using the H hook, double crochet into the 4th chain from hook. Double crochet into every stitch across. (112 stitches.) (Note: for this step, I prefer to stitch into the bottom of the chain, so you get a nice finished edge at the bottom that looks just like the top. Do whatever you prefer.) Turn your work.

Row 2: Chain 3. Double crochet into every stitch (112 stitches.)

Rows 3-6: repeat Row 2.

If you’re using the small balls, this should pretty much use of the whole thing, leaving a generous tail to weave in. If you’re working from a large ball, trim yarn, leaving about 6 inches to weave in later.

White stripe:

Change colours. (I use this method from Rescued Paw.) Using double crochet, crochet 6 rows rows of white as above.

Repeat, alternating between black and white, until you’ve used up all your yarn.

*If you do 9 stripes of each colour (18 total), your blanket should be about 4 feet long.

*I actually bought an additional ball of black yarn and added one more black stripe to the end, so that it begins and ends with black. I thought white on the end might get grubby-looking quicker. So my blanket is about 4’3″ long.

*Weave in ends as you go. I use this method from Crafty Minx.

Tada! Time to get cozy!

And hey! Because it’s made of cotton (read: breathable and light), it’s actually perfect for taking outside on a cool summer night.

Crocheted striped summer blanket. Great beginner project! Easy cotton throw

PS – I made this blanket while in the hospital. You might be interested in: Crochet Helped Me Survive Trauma.

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